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TORONTO: Ahoy, pho mateys!

Canh Buom Nha Trang is an explosion of Pepto-Bismol pink and ocean blue. Life preservers and gold-rope wrapped anchors (where does one order those?) hang on the walls; sparkly blue and red booths remind us of seats on a lurching, carnival ride. Two Buddhas, the Neptune of this ship, stare from the counter.

My sister [...]