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CALGARY: Hard-core pizza pie

Pulcinella used to be Stromboli’s, the type of Italian joint with red and white checkered tablecloths. Now, the family’s younger generation has turned it cool and chic – shiny white banquettes, oversized black and white photo boxes, and a $30,000 wood-burning oven made with stones from Mount Vesuvius.

We arrived on time for our dinner reservation, [...]