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GUILIN: Cruising down the river

Guilin (桂林), which literally translates to “forest of osmanthus flowers,” is famous for its karst terrain where jagged limestone cliffs rise dramatically above shimmering emerald rivers.

Guilin is featured on China’s 20 yuan note — and was used as the planet Kashyyyk in Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith. I didn’t see any [...]

GUILIN: Tongue to tongue action

Zhangyang Soup City (正陽湯城) is a great restaurant in Guilin (桂林), right in its downtown on a pedestrian street that’s teeming with people at night. But be warned, it has different English and Chinese menus.

I flipped through the English menu, and it will get you fed just fine. But sweet and sour pork and fried [...]

HUANGLUO: Don’t throw out the rice water

These ladies are from Huangluo, a minority Yao village in the Longji Terraces at the base of the mountain. It’s more famously known as the Long-hair Village.

According to local tradition, women cut their hair only once in their lives ― at about 16 to 18 years old when they’re considered ready for adulthood and [...]

LONGJI TERRACES: Knock, knock

The traditional wooden and bamboo houses in the villages in the Longji Terraces are built on poles. The open, lower level is for livestock and the upper level is living quarters.

The villagers who live here are so used to tourists that it’s common for them to open up their homes for the curious. It’s one [...]

LONGJI TERRACES: Fatherly wisdom

Imagine my delight when Jason and I asked my father what these were.

“Dried lizards,” said my dad, elbowing Jason. “For enhancing a man’s performance.”

LONGJI TERRACES: The best bacon and chicken soup in the world

The Longji Terraces (龍脊) are a winding, and sometimes nauseating trip up and down the mountains of Longsheng County (龍勝), roughly a two-hour drive from the city of Guilin.

It was a smooth ride setting out from Guilin, watching the endless pomelo stands and orange trees that lined the highway. But as we climbed into [...]

LONGJI TERRACES: Cute Kid 1

This pair were sitting behind a stand at the entrance to the Longji Terraces across from where you buy tickets to get in.

The girl just stared at me but after I asked permission to take their photo, she would break into a huge grin when I waved from behind the camera.

For your reference, [...]