Leo Fu's, CalgaryLeo Fu’s has been selling ginger beef for decades in a weird little strip mall near Chinook Centre. But believe it or not, I was enticed to the Chinese restaurant by the chicken wings.

You won’t find the Szechuan-style wings ($9.95) anywhere else. They’re plump and crispy, and covered in a sticky sweet and spicy sauce. After you’re done with those, you can chase the tasty crispy bits left over on the bottom of the plate.

Technically, Leo Fu’s serves authentic Chinese food but it’s pretty tame fare for a loyal clientele that leans heavily towards lemon chicken and sweet and sour chicken balls. And by loyal clientele, I mean white people.

I was kind of bewildered when the waitress asked if we wanted to start with any drinks or appetizers. A common opening in any Western restaurant obviously, but something I found strange in a Chinese restaurant where you usually order everything at once.

Is this where my Chinese family would go for dinner? Not really. But I’d come here with say, the Korean War veteran who used to live upstairs from me in Bathurst, N.B. and told me my English was very good. I’m guessing he’d be a ginger beef kind of guy, but not really someone who’d dig into a whole fish with head attached. So Leo Fu’s has its place.

Dishes come fast and furious once you get your order in. The salt and pepper squid ($13.95) was decent, and we liked the mountain of shredded cabbage, carrot, onion and red/green pepper mixed in with it.

Leo Fu's, CalgaryI was hoping Szechuan-style string beans ($13.95) were salty and garlicky like the kind made at Hans. But they turned out to have more of a black bean sauce. The beef we added to it was tough, stringy and terrible.

Roast pork fried rice ($10.95) was meh. My mom or Jason make better.

If anything, Leo Fu’s serves large portions that are good value for the money. We got a couple of lunches out of the leftovers. And I liked the chicken wings.

Leo Fu’s, 511 70th Ave. SW, Calgary, (403) 255-2528. Open for lunch weekdays 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner Sunday to Thursday 4:30-10 p.m., Friday & Saturday 4:30-11:30 p.m.

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Leo Fu's, Calgary