CALGARY: Colonial Fusion

Part of the fun in trying restaurants is venturing into newer parts of Calgary. Located in Quarry Park — which still doesn’t fully register on Google Maps or GPS — Colonial Fusion was a bit tricky to find directions for, but it turned out to be pretty straight-forward (Deerfoot to 24 Street East to 107 Avenue SE).

Colonial serves a fusion of Vietnamese-French with a bit of Thai thrown in. The first thing you’ll notice is prices; the priciest item is lobster pad thai at $46. This is not an $8 pho joint, nor is it meant to be.

Colonial is a gorgeous space: high ceilings, a Swarovski crystal dragon, silver chopsticks, and stunning orchids (restaurant owner Kenny Nguyen also runs Itinerante Flowers).

There will be people who love the twist on traditional Vietnamese dishes and welcome elegant touches like tea blossoms in glass teapots. Then there will be the grumblers who can’t stomach the price points for what is normally an inexpensive cuisine.

I fall somewhere in the middle. Colonial is going out on a limb and doing something unique — in the middle of a former gravel pit being transformed into Calgary’s newest “premier community” — which should count for something.

Grilled la lot leaves ($13) are a refined take on a traditional Vietnamese appetizer. Betel leaves are wrapped around tender marinated beef with a chili lime dipping sauce.

The star of our meal was the mahogany quail ($23), plump quarter-birds brushed with honey, garlic, coconut juice and bits of caramelized onion. With quail this tasty, there’s no shame in using fingers and gnawing on the bones.

Salmon caramelized in fish sauce ($23) is cooked just enough for the fresh fish to come through, along with garlic and jalapeno. Meaty duck breast ($27) made up for a mild red curry sauce.

— My review in Metro Calgary

Colonial Fusion Cuisine, 163 Quarry Park Blvd. S.E., Calgary, (403) 723-6669.