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I had two vastly different experiences this past month at two chain restaurants in Calgary. I didn’t set out to compare them but it’s hard not to, when one was so impressive and the other so laughable. First, the good.
The Cactus Club Cafe chain started in North Vancouver, B.C. in 1988. I recall the Cactus Club of my youth being a very casual place that featured neon cactus decor and lots of burgers.
Fast forward to this decade and Cactus Club has really pulled up its socks, changing its whimsical decor to that sleek, dark wood favoured by other upper-priced chains (Earl’s, Moxie’s et al). Its biggest coup has been to hire Rob Feenie, former owner and chef of award-winning Lumière in Vancouver, and the only Canadian to win on Iron Chef America.
Feenie used his French cuisine expertise to create “signature dishes” for Cactus Club. They’re simple but fresh, clean, and sophisticated enough for casual dining. Cactus Club has smartly put these next to its steaks and burgers, rather than abandoning their core audience.
As with Earl’s, Cactus Club skews towards attractive servers. Yes, this will reveal my bias, but I was greatly impressed with our gorgeous AND efficient AND friendly waitress on the night that we went.
The mains really shine. Rob’s Hunter Chicken ($22.50) is a gigantic, moist breast atop fresh green beans and herb fingerling potatoes. A demi-glace with button, portabello, shiitake and crimini mushrooms is cleaned off the plate.
Ravioli stuffed with butternut squash ($24.50) deserves applause, caressed by beurre blanc and amaretti and sprinkled with pine nuts and crispy sage. The addition of perfectly cooked prawns makes this the best chain dinner I’ve ever had.
Now compare that with our dinner at the Olive Garden, a concept developed by General Mills, Inc., maker of cereals and processed foods. Now keep in mind I usually go to chain restaurants with low expectations. I figure they’re good for a quick, OK, hot meal.
As we were seated, the waiter brought over two glasses of water, plunked them down on our table, mumbled, “Hello,” then left.
We perused the menu, and he came back … with a big bowl of salad and bread sticks. “Cheese?” he asked, holding the grater above the bowl. This was all before we said one single word to him.
Yes, every meal at Olive Garden comes with garlic bread sticks… and a choice of salad or soup. Guess not. He also never asked for our drink order. Could we argue he was being ultra-efficient? Sure, possibly. Was it strange? Very.
Our calamari appetizer ($9.50) surely came out of a frozen bag and we actually needed to salt it, which is unheard of when most restaurants tend to OVERsalt.
Jason’s four-cheese stuffed pansotti ($14.50) frankly looked so gross I couldn’t bear to take a photo of it. The pyramid-shaped ravioli stuffed with mozzarella, ricotta, asiago, parmesan were dried out and drowning in a brownish tomato-alfredo sauce that Jason said tasted “like Chef Boyardee sauce.” His dinner was mainly picking at the sausage pieces.
The cheese atop my chicken parmigiana ($17.50) was congealed, but at least the chicken was edible. My side fettuccine alfredo was watery and bland.
I know many people delight in taking home leftovers of the massive Olive Garden portions, but we couldn’t even bear to contemplate the food left on our plates.
The pièce de résistance came at the end as the waiter gave us our bill. As he was walking away, he threw a handful of mint chocolates onto our table. We both burst out laughing, and got out of there as fast as we could.
Cactus Club Cafe, 2612-39th Ave. NE, Calgary, (403) 250-1120. 20 locations in B.C., Alberta.
Olive Garden, 333-36th St. NE, Calgary, (403) 248-1020.
Etiquette question – did you tip the crappy Olive Garden waiter?
If yes, how much and why?
I believe we left $4 on a $45 bill, with the main thinking for the basic tip being he did his basic job which was get our order right and bring our food. However, we didn’t leave anything above that because well, it was an uncomfortable experience.
You could use your post as a template for a future write up of Red Lobster, or when visiting the US, Bahama Breeze, The Capital Grille, Seasons 52 or LongHorn Steakhouse. Just exchange food types and names….similar experiences every where. 1700 locations in all……
Bahama Breeze being my personal exception from their norm.
I have to tell you…we went to Cactus Club on MacLeod Trail last weekend based on finding this very review and boy were we happy we did! The food and the service was awesome. Yummy, Yummy, Yummy!!
We have friends coming in from Saskatchewan next week before they fly to Mexico and they want us to meet them at the Olive Garden. I haven’t been able to bring myself to agree. It’s been years and I am not sure I want to waste even a couple hours there as I’m sure it’s not improved from the last time I was there which had to be when they first opened. What to do?!! lol.
So glad I found your blog…..there’s a few places I can’t wait to try now. Keep the ideas coming!
Just had dinner tonight at the airport location (Cactus Club)… Two things I can confirm.
1) The ravioli w/shrimp (I’m from toronto they’re not prawns they’re shrimp) was EXCELLENT. It’s very rare to get properly cooked prawns/shrimp and the display was very appealing.
2) The staff. Our waitress was gorgeous, funny, helpful, attentive, knowledgeable… I lost my train of thought every time she came by.
Overall a very good experience. The only other experience I’ve had with this type of restaurant chain that was as good was a meal at Moxies at the Sandman. Our waiter was very busy but still took time to converse and be attentive, the meals were done perfectly, everything was very quick and the atmosphere was upscale but relaxed. The waiter explained that their head office was also in the same building so everything had to be done 100% by the book in that restaurant and it showed. It was a really nice restaurant experience for a change.