RICHMOND: Sushi Hachi

California rolls, ho-hum? Yawning at yet another piece of yellowtail? Check this beautiful saba battera ($11.50) from Sushi Hachi (鮨八).

Lightly pickled mackarel is placed on top of packed sushi rice into a box mold, which results in the tight, rectangular shape. The bite becomes different from nigiri sushi, which has rice formed by hand into more of a loose clump.

Sushi Hachi adds a thin leaf of shiso for a subtle, fragrant burst.

It’s the homage to fresh fish that sets this tiny husband-wife-run operation apart from the places that churn out sushi rolls and teriyaki chicken like soulless factories. In fact, Sushi Hachi, with about half a dozen tables and a few sushi bar seats, is open only about four hours a day for two sittings.

Ankimo ($6.50) is a rich, beautiful dish made from the liver of the very ugly monkfish. Called the foie gras of the sea, ankimo is similar to a pâté.

The liver is rubbed with salt, then rinsed with sake. It’s rolled into a cylinder, steamed and served with grated daikon, green onions and ponzu sauce. Absolutely delicious.

The house special roll is packed with raw and cooked salmon, tamago, crab and cucumber, topped with salty tobiko.

The unagi California roll has a surprising twist with fresh crab, and crumbled bits of eel sprinkled on top.

There’s a small section of cooked foods/tempura, which are made with a small burner and deep-fryer. Barbecued fish head is fantastic with quite a fight over the tender cheek meat at our table. Miso soup ($1.50) comes with a big piece of grilled fish in the bottom of the bowl.

But Sushi Hachi’s gems are the sashimi. Sockeye salmon ($9.50), madai/seabream ($18), mirugai/geoduck ($18), toro/tuna belly ($14.50)… Sliced not too thick, not too thin, it was just perfect.

Don’t come here if you’re in a rush. This is a place to enjoy and appreciate some fine raw fish.

The husband mans the sushi bar (filled with Japanese businessmen when we were there — always a great sign), while the wife does double duty serving as well as cooking the hot foods. Despite constantly being on the run, she stayed friendly and efficient.

My only complaint is there is no ventilation, so the small restaurant can get hazy quickly if the deep-frying/burner really gets going.

Sushi Hachi, Pacific Plaza, 1278-8888 Odlin Cres. (but entrance faces Cambie Road), Richmond, B.C., (604) 207-2882. Dinner only. Reservations essential for two evening seatings.