CALGARY: Mermaid Inn

I’m a little behind on the blogging, but my review in last week’s Metro was on the Mermaid Inn inside the Danish Canadian Club.

I totally forgot to mention that no, you do not have to be a member to dine there. In fact, I was really excited this summer when the club was holding a beer garden and the chef handed me a complimentary membership card.

Jason pointed out the “memberships” were being given to everyone; he later also observed that the club doesn’t really check for members when you walk in.

The Mermaid Inn is huge, and adorned with portraits of Danish royalty (I think) and landscape paintings. The atmosphere is more nursing home than chic hot spot, but that’s not why we’re here.

This is all about hearty Danish comfort food.

The marinated fish — herring with curry sauce, gin and dill gravlax ($8.95) and anchovy with egg and tomato ($6.95) — are refreshing and delicious.

Mains stick to your bones, especially the Danish pork sausage ($10.95) with gravy, mashed potatoes and braised red cabbage. The wiener schnitzel ($15.95) was good but nothing any more remarkable than anywhere else.

While we enjoyed our Danish dinner, I’ve had more than one person tell me that the Saturday morning brunch (10 a.m.-1:30 p.m.) and the Danish buffet on the last Saturday evening of every month are real highlights worth returning for.

The club’s monthly newsletters have all the details on the Mermaid Inn’s changing specials and on the club’s special events like Oktoberfest on Oct. 3.

Mermaid Inn, Danish Canadian Club, 727-11th Ave. SW, Calgary, (403) 261-9774.

Open Monday to Thursday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday 10 a.m.-10 p.m. and Saturday 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Closed Sundays.