TORONTO: Killer cocktails + helluva deal

A restaurant named after a cocktail better make some good ones. Sidecar certainly lives up to that expectation, but it also serves up a helluva dinner deal.

Their Grade 8 mojito is a refreshing twist on the original, with Bacardi 8, lime, mint and peach bitters. I knew it was going to be good when I saw the bartender lovingly wielding a large muddler.

Scott’s vanilla martini was tasty and potent. Verrry potent.

There’s a long cocktail list and a short wine list (only by the glass, as far as I could tell). Corkage is $20 per bottle.

Sidecar’s other big draw is a Sunday-Wednesday, three-course, prix fixe dinner for — $24.

The small dining room is packed on a Sunday, testament to not only the value, but also to the upstanding dishes the kitchen puts out.

Three of us chose the Caesar salad to start: romaine hearts, pancetta, and a huge ricotta crostini. It was excellent, with a garlicky, anchovy Caesar dressing. The other two got the Sidecar salad of chopped vegetables, feta cheese, and creamy oregano dressing.

There’s something for everyone among the four main course selections for the prix fixe. Despite a table full of meat lovers, none of us chose the steak frites (mainly because we had all separately eaten steak the night before). However, Ben and Scott, who go to Sidecar regularly, assure me the 8 oz. sirloin and fries are fantastic.

The star, by far, was the generous crispy oven-roasted chicken that includes a sizable de-boned portion of dark meat, which I love. I appreciate the equal consideration for breast and leg lovers. The breast, so easily dried out, is juicy and full of flavour, not to mention the accurately advertised crispy skin.

To offset the skin, I happily ate the crisp broccolini and fingerling potatoes that came with the chicken.

Gigi’s fettuccini (with Brussels sprouts, cherry tomatoes, lemon, pecorino and olive oil) was simple but comforting. She enviously eyeballed our roast chickens, but there was more than enough of the bird to share.

Scott’s Atlantic salmon with a maple balsamic glaze was also very good, on top of green beans, cherry tomatoes and a champagne viniagrette.

The prix fixe dessert is chef’s choice. Chef sent out two very rich, triangles of flourless chocolate cake. Wowza. Good choice, chef. And good thing I didn’t wear my skinny jeans.

My only quibble is that the pauses between dishes were a tad long; however, it was hardly aggravating as the atmosphere was comfortable, the company lovely, and the service still attentive.

Sidecar is not fancy or fussy. It’s a fabulous neighbourhood bistro that doesn’t fool around with foams (ugh, my nemesis) and overly elaborate dishes. You will be served well, eat well — and maybe get a little buzzed too — without major pain to your wallet.

Sidecar, 577 College St., Toronto, (416) 536-7000. Open daily, 5-10 p.m. Bar open later for cocktails only. $24 prix fixe menu Sunday to Wednesday.