EDMONTON: Culina redux

No visit to Edmonton is complete for us without brunch at Culina. The Sunday menu is smaller and slightly different than its signature Saturday brunch menu, but both still have my beloved bacon and eggs ($15).

I can try to pretend I’ll order something else, but I rarely do. The slow braised “bacon” is to die for, especially with the housemade spicy ketchup. This time, I think the pork portion tripled from my last visit. Not that I was complaining, ahem.

I noticed a few new Sunday items, including the Ukrainian breakfast, which is a satisfying plate of perogies, kubasa sausage, eggs and thick toast.

Another newish item, the eggs benedict with smoked salmon, was truthfully quite mediocre. The Hollandaise sauce was bland, and the poached eggs only lukewarm.

With the return of owner and chef Brad Lazarenko, who had been focusing on new restaurants in the B.C. Interior, I wonder if less than exciting items like that will get a revamp or be kicked off the menu.

It will be interesting to see what additions and changes he makes to the popular neighbourhood bistro. Keeping a kitchen on its toes is a good thing, I think.

Culina Mill Creek, 9914-89 Ave., Edmonton, Alberta, (780) 437-5588. Weekdays 9 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-10 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-10 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.-2 p.m.