There are lots of yummy things at Delux, a bistro in a neighbourhood that’s chock full of hot eateries, but there are two items that keep me coming back.
The pressed Cubano sandwich ($15) is divine, with mouth-watering layers of cider-cured pork shoulder, ham, gruyère cheese, cornichons and grainy mustard on homemade bread.
Owner/chef Corinna Mozo originally wanted a French-Cuban bistro but acknowledged it’s too difficult to cook Cuban during Canada winters, so Delux is mostly French with hints of Cuban.
Mozo, who was born in Montreal, moved back to Toronto from Boston because she wanted her children to grow up in Canada. Her maternal side comes through at dessert, in warm, oven-fresh cookies oozing with Callebut chocolate chunks, and a glass of milk on the side ($7).
There’s certainly much more. The duck confit provençale ($24) doesn’t skimp on richness, with housemade sausage, white beans, and lardoons. This is a confident, gut-sticking dish that shows off Mozo’s much-lauded and well-honed skills.
Steak frites ($24) is a nice, tender cut of flat-iron (I think) that comes already sliced with a hint of lime. Don’t you dare order it well-done. Frites are good, and there’s a side of watercress tossed in a light, lemony dressing.
Some small quibbles: inability of the hostess to handle the logjam of walk-ins and parties with reservations at the tiny entrance; terrible acoustics. But those are minor issues, compared to the deliciousness of the Cubano sandwich.
Even though Delux is a casual neighbourhood spot — which to me means strolling in and grabbing a seat — reservations are essential. The small dining room fills up quickly and regularly, but they’ve renovated the back to accommodate larger parties, so that should help.
There’s no actual signage that says “Delux”; look for the white arrow that points at the door.
Delux, 92 Ossington Ave., Toronto, (416) 537-0134. Open Tuesday to Thursday 6-10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6-11 p.m., Sunday 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m., 6 to 10 p.m. Reservations essential.
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