Nha Trang, Toronto

Canh Buom Nha Trang is an explosion of Pepto-Bismol pink and ocean blue. Life preservers and gold-rope wrapped anchors (where does one order those?) hang on the walls; sparkly blue and red booths remind us of seats on a lurching, carnival ride. Two Buddhas, the Neptune of this ship, stare from the counter.

My sister and her husband, and College Street club kids, call this place “The Nautical.”

I’m sure the owners meant well; Nha Trang is a coastal city in Vietnam and Google Translator says that canh buom means “sail.”

Nha Trang, Toronto

And what of the food? Well, the menu is standard Vietnamese pho and bun with a smattering of rice dishes.

Nha Trang, TorontoThe deep-fried spring rolls ($4 – only vegetarian is offered) were piping hot, but on the greasy side.

My large A07 pho (rare beef and beef balls – $6) was pretty standard. The broth was sweet and heavy on the star anise.

I would have preferred the rare beef slices cut thinner, as they got tougher sitting in the hot soup. The beef balls were tasty, but also chewy and squeaky; Kevin guessed there was tendon in them.

The pho is nothing to write home about, but the decor certainly is.

Canh Buom Nha Trang (it says Pho Canh Buom outside), 1144 College St., (416) 538-4287. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.