KANANASKIS COUNTRY: Snoeshowing, mountains and afternoon tea

When Christina invited me to go snowshoeing near Canmore and then afternoon tea at the Mount Engadine Lodge, I was envisioning a leisurely hour-long stroll, max two, followed by a cozy appointment with baked goods and a hot mug of tea.

I was right on the second count at least. I should’ve known better when Christina advised me to pack a light lunch and water.

Even raised in Vancouver and living in Calgary, I’m not a mountain girl. I love looking at them, but bundling up, gearing up and getting there always seemed like too much work. The rare times I do go, I rely on friends much more experienced than me.

And so it was that I tagged along with Christina, Kristine and Daria — all avid outdoors women — on this day trip.

We drove two hours from Calgary and parked outside the Mount Engadine Lodge, about 40 kilometres south of Canmore. The entrance to the 10-kilometre Rummel Lake trail is off Mount Shark Road.

The first half hour seemed all uphill, and it was frickin’ hard. If it weren’t for Daria, who was setting the pace ahead, reassuring me repeatedly that the trail would eventually flatten out, I was seriously considering turning back.

We were blessed with a beautiful day, and the scenery was stunning. When we reached Rummel Lake about an hour and 45 minutes later, I had never wanted to eat an apple so badly in my life.

We sat down and devoured our packed lunches. And man, that was one good apple.

The way back down was comparatively easier and much faster. The afternoon tea at the lodge Christina had raved so many times about was very much the carrot at the end of the stick for me.

We were immediately given a warm welcome by the innkeepers, Chris and Shari-Lynn. We took off our heavy boots and slipped into some handmade knitted booties.

Larger groups had already taken the tables in the dining room, so Chris led us to a corner of the cozy study on the other side of the fireplace and piano. We sunk into the couches, and stared at the stunning view. Christina says you can often see moose, often getting it on, in the meadows.

Hot coffee, a spread of teas, a cheese platter, crackers, smoked oysters, fruit, tortilla chips, dips and a variety of baked goods lay before us for an amazingly reasonable $13 per person.

As sunshine streamed into the study, we sampled some:

excellent guacamole and white bean dip
moist banana bread
delicious orange-cranberry loaf
gooey chocolate cake.

It was a wonderful end to an exhilarating outdoors day.

A two-night minimum booking is required to stay at the lodge but the rates include all meals. Alternatively, you can drop in for afternoon tea or make reservations for dinner by candlelight.

Mount Engadine Lodge, phone (403) 678-4080. Mount Shark Road turnoff on the Smith Dorrien-Spray Lakes Road (Highway 742). Click for directions here.