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CALGARY: Follow the signs for ramen

OK, sushi-starved people. Globefish in Kensington has moved. Look 50 paces north. There you go. See the big orange sign on what used to be Shan Tung, the Chinese restaurant? That’s now Globefish, freshly renovated and double the size.

It seems moving across just two parking lots is causing much confusion for Globefish’s loyal throngs, as we sat slurping ramen in its former space and watching people wander in and then look bewildered.

In what used to be Globefish’s original, always-cramped, tiny building has risen Muku Japanese Ramen House, run by the same three owners.

Muku, Calgary

Muku means pure in Japanese, and the space has definitely been stripped down, especially the open kitchen. There’s no need for fancy equipment to pump out steaming, hot bowls of ramen noodles, but a few colourful hangings here or there can’t hurt.

The menu is short: a few basic appetizers (edamame, salad), various ramen, and a few rice bowls.

We started with the shrimp dumplings ($6.50), which I’d advise passing on. The shrimp inside was processed to the point of mush, and the flavour was pretty blah. I’d love for Muku to add some gyoza or karaage to boost its menu.

Muku, CalgaryMy spicy tonkotsu ramen ($9.95) came with two slices of fatty pork, some chopped lean pork, pickled ginger, two baby corn pieces, some green onions and a big wallop of hot sauce. Strangely, there is black pepper on the table, but not that little red shaker of assorted chili pepper.

Jason’s was similar but with nice wonton pieces ($11.95) as well.

I like the ramen noodles here the best out of the places I’ve tried in Calgary. They’re al dente and chewy. But I will say I like the broths better at Shikiji. I found Muku’s thick tonkotsu broth quite oily.

Non-pork eaters are out of luck here. You can top your ramen with chasu (thinly sliced roasted pork, different from the barbecued Chinese kind), pork wonton, or both… or add extra chasu.

Jason didn’t like the fat on the pork slices, but I did because I like the flavour it adds next to the lean pork bits.

Muku is a great addition to Kensington where there really aren’t any comparable noodle houses (especially good pho), or comfortable, quick, inexpensive restaurants.

Muku Japanese Ramen House, 328-14th St. NW, Calgary. Open weekdays 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m., weekends noon-10 p.m.

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