I had two terrific dinners in Toronto at what might be loosely called tapas restaurants. Of course, tapas is technically a bunch of small Spanish appetizers — preferably consumed in Spain — but now I think it’s become really any plates designed to be shared — preferably with people you like.
Karen, my wise friend who just moved back from Africa, suggested we try Tomi-Kro, a funky spot in Leslieville.
Despite having a reservation, we were seated at a table where my chair was literally in the middle of an arched walkway. We switched to one table over after politely asking, but we noticed no other couple arrived after us — so why were we seated in the crappy spot in the first place? They obviously weren’t saving the table we ended up at for anyone. Sigh. I never understand that. (And no, we weren’t dressed bad or smelled funny.)
I can’t even say it was snobbery because the service was fine. Hardly warm, but fine.
Now, with that out of the way, let me say the food itself was great. The menu is a mixture of tapas and à la carte main dishes.
We started with tempura lobster maki balls ($10), a total twist on well, a lot of things. It was a sushi roll full of chunks of lobster and mango and then lightly battered and deep-fried like tempura resulting in a ball that was then cut in half. It doesn’t sound like a good idea but it made our taste buds very happy. I enjoyed the neatness of it because it didn’t fall apart like regular maki.
We moved on to a hunky filet of beef ($22) on wasabi mashed potatoes with gorgonzola, carmelized onions and jus. It was exquisite.
But the two sides we ordered left the biggest impression. Roasted beets with goat cheese, balsamic vinegar and pistachios came with an addictive garlicky sauce that made it even harder to not gobble up immediately. And finally a well-made risotto ($6) but done here by way of the East, with slender pieces of shiitake mushroom and dashi, a distinctive Japanese soup stock.
We were happy, full girls.
Carrying on that theme a few nights later, Allison picked Foxley in now-hip Parkdale to meet up for dinner. It’s a tiny spot — 40 seats tops in a long narrow setup — on Ossington between Queen West and Dundas. It too does a Latin meets Asian menu which changes daily, but it’s unassuming, fun and utterly delicious. (Sorry, it was way too dark for my pics to turn out.)
We wanted to try all two dozen or so irresistible-sounding tapas. The first plate on our table was lamb and duck prosciutto dumplings ($7). Not much to look at, but it was hot, crispy and punctuated with bits of salty duck cured in Chinese rice wine.
There are several ceviches to choose from — a nod to chef Tom Thai’s wizardry with sushi and fresh fish. The sea bream ceviche ($14) is amazing, raw fish marinated in yuzu juice (a sour Japanese fruit) and fragrant shiso leaf.
The fresh spring rolls ($7) packed with rice noodles, grilled portobello mushroom, powdered chipotle, fresh vine leaf and herbs, wrapped in rice paper satisfied Chinta’s recovering vegetarian taste buds, but won over even my meat-loving tendencies. I even didn’t mind the grilled tofu and vegetable plate ($7) drizzled with tangy yuzu-ponzu sauce.
But then the roast duck breast ($18) arrived and Chinta was enchanted with the moist tender meat with port sauce infused with sweet umeboshi (Japanese pickled plums). I hope Foxley keeps the grilled rib eye steak ($20) with chimichurri and baby arugula on its menu all the time. Served sliced rare, the steak melted in my mouth with the tantalizing tangy garlicky cilantro sauce.
Of note, Foxley sets out chopsticks and no cutlery on the tables. Service was friendly and precise and we never felt rushed despite the steady stream of people waiting for tables. That will likely multiply now that enRoute magazine has named Foxley one of Canada’s top 10 best new restaurants.
Tomi-Kro, 1214 Queen St. East, Toronto, (416) 463-6677. Open for dinner at 6 p.m. Closed Sundays.
Foxley Bistro, 207 Ossington Ave., Toronto, (416) 534-8520. Open for dinner 6-11 p.m. Closed Sundays. No reservations taken.
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