TORONTO: Great expectations

I’m not sure why I first wanted to try Thuet. It might have been an intriguing review or an episode of Opening Soon. The bistro is named after chef Marc Thuet, who hails from Alsace, France and has a bit of a bad-boy reputation. He smokes like a chimney and swears like a sailor, but he knows classic French cooking.

I’ve made reservations for Thuet twice on two separate trips to Toronto, but somehow had to cancel each time. It became an obsession.

The build-up was so great that I was already satisfied with simply walking into Thuet for Sunday brunch last month. There was a lineup at opening 11 a.m. on the dot of people with reservations. The dining room is classic banquette, dark-wood and white linens but the bank of big windows saves it from being gloomy.

This is not somewhere I could imagine popping into for a quick cup of joe. Thuet’s Sunday brunch is rich and indulgent. More like dinner. With eggs.

We started with steak tartare ($18), raw hand-chopped tenderloin and striploin with toast, topped with a pretty cracked-open raw quail’s egg. Mixed with minced gherkins and sprinkled with chives, I liked the fresh chunkiness of the tartare but found it a tad too mild in flavour.

Kevin had his day’s calories and more on a plate. Poached eggs, and two huge pieces of boudin noir and andouille sausage ($16) on top of rösti potatoes with a piece of thick bread. The house-made blood sausage was well, meaty and the andouille spicier but both were dense. It’s one of those dishes that puts hair on your chest.

Thuet’s deft way with meats comes honestly. Alsace borders Germany and takes that country’s rustic tradition of sausages and smoked meats. I read an article that Thuet spent one bloody afternoon perfecting the boudin noir before adding it to his menu.

My Eggs Benedict and Eggs Norwegian ($15) combo came on a wonderful flaky petit croissant, one with delicious ham and the other with smoked salmon. The hollandaise was smooth buttery heaven. My plate came with a green salad which should balance out the sauce, right?

Gigi went totally indulgent and ordered the scrambled eggs with lobster ($28). To the eye, it was disappointingly small. Even though the lobster was succulent and the eggs delicious, that price point was screaming for more to be delivered on the plate.

Mom’s order was my favourite. Eggs Meurette ($14), poached in red wine sauce, mushrooms and double-smoked bacon scored on all levels. It makes for an unattractive photo, but this was what I had pictured Thuet to be. Very down-to-earth and very French. The sauce concentrated with the wine and bacon was glorious.

Perhaps I was anticipating this visit a little too much. We left with mixed feelings. Service was professional, but hardly warm. The food was excellently executed but not magnificent.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoyed dining at Thuet, but there was just something missing to make it entirely memorable. I’d like to return for one of its famed multi-course set menu dinners and see how that goes, but maybe with less expectation next time.

Thuet, 609 King St. West, Toronto, (416) 603-2777. Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Brunch menu and other info here.