TORONTO: Breakfast at Mimi’s

UPDATE: Mimi’s has hung up her apron after 22 years to relax, make beaded guitar straps and play poker. Thanks for the hash, Mimi! Read more about it here.

To put it mildly, Mimi’s is a quirky place. It shares the same grungy, two-storey brick building as the Oak Leaf Steam Baths. Blink and you’ll miss the never-lit neon sign that spells out the owner’s name in cursive, surrounded by knick knacks and Elvis memorabilia.

I walk in early on a weekday morning and Mimi (I presume) is doing the crossword. There are some counter seats, a few booths and a wall of framed photos and kitsch.

Mimi has a reputation for feeding many a struggling musician passing through town. The menu says, Mimi’s “just a cowgirl cookin’ with love.” I’m already smitten because I see she’s named the chili after Blue Rodeo, my favouritest band in the whole world.

I’m craving a hearty breakfast and Mimi’s delivers. My plate of corned beef hash ($7.95) is topped with two fried eggs, heaping hash browns and toast. I’m in the mood to eat quietly and read my paper. They read my mind, leaving me alone until I need coffee refills.

Nothing here is more than ten bucks. The specials board boasts of Mexican omelette and I hear the juice is fresh-squeezed.

My breakfast is big. The eggs and hash browns are great. The corned beef is a little chewy. Meh. I don’t mind. Mimi is now yelling about an article in the paper on the Spice Girls reunion, and how she can’t tell the difference between them circa 1997 and now.

It’s not for everyone, but I like it here.

Mimi’s, 218 Bathurst St., Toronto, (416) 703-6464. Cash only. Open Thurs-Sun, 10 am-3 pm (unless Mimi doesn’t feel like opening), closed Mon-Wed.