CALGARY: A tale of two smoked meats

My first true smoked meat experience was thankfully at Schwartz’s Deli in Montreal. It was busy, cramped, and probably looked the same as the day it opened in 1928. I wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

The counter man lifted a brisket from the steamer, and started slicing and slicing and slicing. I got worried because I only ordered one sandwich. This was no ordinary sandwich. A heaping pile of smoked meat, pushing aside two tiny slices of rye bread, slathered in mustard. It was bewitching.

I have no idea how Montreal smoked meat is made because most places describe it as cured, spiced or flavoured with “a secret blend of herbs and spices.” Besides, I have no intention of trying to smoke my own meat at home.

Calgary has a handful of Montreal smoked meat places. Palace of Eats is the most “upscale,” owned by the same people who run the Galaxie Diner next door.

I got a regular cut sandwich – 8 oz for $9 – which comes on Winnipeg rye, with coleslaw, ruffled Old Dutch chips and a kosher dill pickle. There’s a selection of six mustards, so I chose the “house blend” of dijon, grainy and honey spice.

The smoked meat here is machine-sliced for thin uniform pieces. I found the meat very tasty but it was quite moist which turned the rye soggy quickly. On a side note, the coleslaw was excellent.

Palace of Eats wins points for its exceptional surroundings. It has refurbished original wood panelling and furniture from a downtown lunch counter that ran from 1918 to 1964. I love the huge store-front windows that stream in sunlight. A perfect place to enjoy a sandwich, the paper and some quiet moments.

On the other hand, Alberta King of Subs looks like a mediocre sub counter, all florescent lights and plastic chairs. It fits into this working class northeast neighbourhood. Unless you’re looking for it, the strip mall it’s in is easy to miss. This is less about atmosphere and all about the Montreal smoked meat.

Here, it’s hand-cut just like at Schwartz’s, leaving the meat thick and mouth-watering. The regular sandwich is $8.75 and comes with just a pickle. A little pricey but very authentic.

The lack of sides gives a good excuse to order the poutine here, which is also very authentic. The hand-cut fries and REAL cheese curds come drowning in dark gravy. To die for.

Both places import their smoked meat from Montreal. I prefer Alberta King of Subs, but it’s quite a hike from where I live. Still, to have a few choices in Calgary is pretty good, when dropping into Schwartz’s just isn’t an option.

Alberta King of Subs, 7196 Temple Dr. NE, Calgary, (403) 293-5809.
Palace of Eats, 1411-11th St. SW, Calgary, (403) 244-6602. Open every day, 11 a.m.- 4 p.m.
Schwartz’s Deli, 3895 Saint-Laurent Blvd., Montreal, (514) 842-4813.