TORONTO: Stuffed for brunch

This place is cramped, small and drafty every time the front door swings open. The clumsy paintings suck. Yet I have a soft spot for Maggie’s. Partly because it was within stumbling distance of where I used to live.

The first thing going for it is portions. They’re huge. My standard three eggs overeasy came with a generous clump of Italian sausage, buttered toast, some healthy fruit — and a side mountain of garlic fries. Yes, your clothes may reek of garlic when you leave but damn, it’s worth it.

The other thing I crave from Maggie’s is its stuffed French toast. You can choose from peanut butter and banana, peach compote and whipped cream and a few others I can’t remember.

After each polishing off a breakfast plate one morning, my friend Joanne and I foolishly also asked for a side order of the stuffed French toast with cream cheese and strawberries. The “side” turned out to be six pieces of bread overflowing with stuffing.

Diners are elbow-to-elbow at the small round tables on the weekends, and the lunch hours are busy with take-out for schoolkids from across the street. (They like to bump my chair. Grrrr.) It doesn’t bode well for coffee refills, but you can always turn to the garlic fries for comfort.

Maggie’s, 400 College St., Toronto, 416-323 3248